Black & Brew Coffee House & Bistro

Back to reality.

You can eat dessert first at Black & Brew, but I would suggest sticking to your normal routine here and trying the incredible salads and sandwiches before jumping into anything sweet.

In fact, I never did try the cakes others were salivating over at the front counter, although I did enjoy several frozen drinks that serve just as well in that capacity.

But first, the real food.

Owner Chris McArthur, who opened the downtown coffee house and bistro four years ago, offers fare at a relatively low cost, comparatively speaking.

Breakfast is basic: Ham, sausage or bacon with egg and cheese on your choice of a croissant, English muffin or ciabatta bread for $2.99 (add fresh fruit for a total of $4.55). But the sandwiches are made right there, mine on very fresh ciabatta with an extra-large sausage patty and an egg cooked just right - so the yolk doesn't drip when you bite into it. For something so simple, it was unusually enjoyable.

For something sweet, don't pass up the banana nut or chocolate chip muffins - moist, delicious and super-sized. Do note, however, that even though the menu says $1.95 I was charged $2.25 each; an employee said menus will be changed soon to reflect the new price.

And make sure to try the white chocolate/raspberry scone ($1.95), a flavorful and sinful way to start the day.

If breakfast was basic, lunch is anything but.

The Chipotle Chicken Panini ($6.95) stuffs strips of roasted chicken breast, red-hot pepperoni, red peppers, mozzarella and basil pesto onto fresh and crispy ciabatta bread, which is pressed nearly flat. The unique pairings gave this sandwich such a powerful kick that I wanted more.

The house specialty, the B&B Meltaway ($6.95), packs oven-roasted beef and smoked turkey breast into a French baguette with cheddar and Swiss cheeses. A dip into au jus completes this warm sandwich - the only one that's not available in the restaurant's "Choose Two" special, where you can choose any half salad, bowl of soup or half sandwich for $6.95 (with an additional charge for wraps, paninis and bisques or chowders).

Salads offered just as much punch as the sandwiches.

In fact, the dressing on the Southwest Tortilla Salad ($6.95) provided a bigger punch than you'll find in most professional boxing matches. If you're scared, order the spicy chipotle dressing on the side. But use it - even if just a little. It greatly enhances the flavors of the corn, black beans, cheddar cheese, grape tomatoes, roasted chicken breast and tortilla strips that are piled on a bed of mixed lettuces.

The Mediterranean: ($7.15) is one salad that's filling even without chicken. Red peppers, cucumbers, grape tomatoes, kalamata olives, red onions and gorgonzola cheese are stacked on lettuce, then sprinkled with oregano and parsley. The combination makes you feel like you're in Greece without having to travel.

Soups vary by the day - you can find out when your favorite is available at www.blackandbrew.com. I tried fire-roasted vegetable soup ($3.15 per cup, $3.75 for a bowl), which could just be called "pepper" soup - as in too many green peppers. It wasn't bad, but not something I would order again.

I wouldn't say the same for the Heath Bar Mocha Frappe ($4.05 for 16 ounces or $4.75 for 20) or the non-coffee Strawberries and Cr<0x00E8>me (same price). The Heath Bar was the perfect combination of sweet candy chunks and ice-cold coffee, a refreshing drink even for those who don't drink the caffeinated beverage. The Strawberries and Cr<0x00E8>me, recommended by the cashier, was as good as described, a smooth combination of an ice cream-based product and sweetened strawberries.

When last reviewed in 2006, Black & Brew received <0xF0AB><0xF0AB><0xF0AB> 1/2. It retains that rating this year.

Lenore Devore can be reached at lenore.devore@theledger.com or 802-7501.