Catfish Country

Catfish Country Still a Pleaser

Fry, baby, fry.

I don't prefer fried food, but when it's just that much better than broiled, it's worth the extra calories.
So plan to pack on the pounds when you head to Catfish Country in Highland City.

And don't wait to get to the entre: Get greasy with the appetizer.

Alligator nuggets ($9.79) are described on the menu as 'finest farm raised,' and who could argue with that. The breading was light and crunchy, the meat tender and moist. This is the perfect combination, and the best fried gator I've tried in Polk County.

Corn fritters ($4.69 for a heaping serving) were the perfect complement, sweet and juicy.

The entre menu was exhaustive and one can get tired just reading it. Add to it a few specials on a chalkboard and you can go crazy trying to figure out what you're in the mood for. But take your time: The wait staff was pleasant and accommodating, serving biscuits, cole slaw and green onions to tickle your taste buds as you wait for the main meal.

The Broiled Captain's Platter ($17.99) includes a healthy serving of crab legs, shrimp, scallops, salmon and grouper. The waitress was most accommodating when I asked for extra shrimp and no scallops, but I'm not sure it came out that way. Served with the crab legs, shrimp and fish was an ice-cream-scoop-size mound of crab stuffing.

The meal was average and nothing ordinary or outstanding. The salmon was a bit overcooked, but the grouper and shrimp were cooked perfectly. When dealing with seafood, that's critical.

But everything tasted almost the same, likely because most were covered with an Old Bay-type seasoning. Even the Spicy Grilled Chicken Breast ($7.49 on the Early Bird Special menu) tasted the same.

Fried food in the Country was a step up. The Pick Two or Pick Three provides fried and broiled options for $12.99 or $15.99, respectively. From the choices, we tried catfish, of course; clam strips; and frog legs.

I had great hope for the catfish, which was lightly covered with a crisp, not greasy, coating. But the fish tasted muddy, like it came from the nearest lake. A higher-quality catfish would eliminate all or part of that taste.

The frog legs looked like they came from Calavares County, home of the Jumping Frog Jubilee, where the frogs are said to be as big as dogs (kidding, of course). Seriously, though, there was enough meat on these bones for more than one delicious, tender and juicy bite.

And the clam strips, which looked like nothing more than a bit of bread fried, were amazingly tasty.
Dessert options were few, but the carrot cake ($2.99) is definitely worth trying, especially for those who love walnuts and would rather forego raisins.

Catfish Country has a separate lunch menu available from 11 a.m. to 4 p.m. Tuesdays through Fridays. Prices are cheaper, but the selection looks just as good.

When last reviewed in 2005 Catfish Country received three and 1/2 stars. This year it receives three stars.

Lenore Devore can be reached at lenore.devore@theledger.com or 802-7501.