Chipotle Mexican Grill

People go gaga over Chipotle Mexican Grill.

They huddle in long lines, braving the elements, when a new store throws open its doors. And when the hubbub subsides, they return again and again, which is how the chain has spread from coast to coast in 18 years.

Of course it helped that McDonalds Corp. was for several years a financial partner, helping fuel that rapid growth. In 2006, Chipotle went public, and they have no plans to franchise.

So what's next, London? Paris? Yes on both counts. And no telling how much bang the Denver-based corporation got for founder Steve Ells' starring role on the NBC reality show, "America's Next Great Restaurant."

Chipotle has, in fact, realized such success that it's creating a spinoff concept -- ShopHouse Southeast Asian Kitchen. Is America ready for football-sized egg rolls? Stay tuned.

Now, about those burritos and tacos, Chipotle's trade staples that customers custom-order from ingredients sourced, according to the company's marketers, locally when possible.

Just about everything on the menu is tasty and well-seasoned. Portions are ample. You'll need two hands to manipulate a burrito.

That you might be doing your body a scintilla of good by ingesting these gargantuan packages stuffed with hormone-free braised pork, organically grown beans, cheese made with a vegetable-based rennet and bell peppers that might have been grown just down the street, even better.

You can eat a ridiculous amount of Chipotle food for less than $10, including soft drink, chips and salsa, which are priced separately. Yes, for that kind of money you could feed a family of four at Taco Bell.

But it's worth the extra dinero at Chipotle, a fast-casual concept that treats food, as its slogan suggests, with respect, catering to vegetarians and carnivores alike, people who are turned on by words like green, sustainable and free range.

Ells, a graduate of New York's prestigious Culinary Institute of America, has rather ingeniously created a gourmet taco bar tailored to gringos who don't mind a punch of smoky, tangy adobo, or the earthiness of cilantro.

Who knew that tomatillos come in red, a ripened and sweeter version of the tart, green fruit? They are utilized in one of several kinds of salsa, all tasting fresh and with various intensities of heat.

Chipotle takes the mystery out of product preparation. Chicken and steak is grilled within full view of patrons lined up, shoulder to shoulder, making selections from a spare menu that, in some states, includes margaritas.

According to a public relations representative for Chipotle, Florida charges too much for a license to serve drinks laced with tequila. But you can get a fine, cold Mexican lager with a wedge of lime.

Don't care for the sticky mess of eating steamed tortillas, stuffed and oozing with beans and runny, fiery salsas? Chipotle lets you pile the ingredients of your choice into a bowl made with recycled paper, or on top of salad greens, served with a chili-spiked vinaigrette.

There are no desserts on the menu, unless you consider Chipotle's lively flavored, slightly chunky guacamole in that category. Nacho chips are lightly salted and crisp, if somewhat mundane.

Polk County's single Chipotle outlet is at 3434 S. Florida Ave., Lakeland. Smaller and even more Spartan than some, it has the same warehouse industrial feel, with speakers spouting a playlist that is as intriguing as it is eclectic, everything from Tejano to techno, with a dose of trip hop and electronica thrown in.

The restaurant caters to children, with a soda fountain and downsized food options for smaller appetites. Patio dining is also available.

Despite the Chipotle cachet, it is, after all, a fast-food experience, albeit more than a few notches above most chains. A few quibbles, however. With the higher price point, Chipotle should do a better job of keeping tables swept clean.

During a March 29 inspection, the restaurant met standards but was cited for three critical violations, including food stored on the floor of a walk-in cooler. All were corrected at once.

The Chipotle Mexican Grill experience may not be authentic Tex-Mex, but it's close enough for those of us who are on the run, famished, and willing to spend a little extra for wholesome, quality fare in an environment that's hip and earth-friendly.

For a chain enterprise, Chipotle is a cut above, deserving of three and 1/2 stars.

Ledger Reporter Eric Pera can be reached at eric.pera@theledger.com or 802-7528.