Gator's Dockside

If it tastes like chicken, why not just go with the chicken?

And if you do, you'll be rewarded with some truly stellar poultry, specifically wings, cooked three ways and flavored with a multitude of lip-smacking sauces.

The name -- Gator's Dockside -- implies a reptilian-leaning menu. Such is not the case at this popular, South Lakeland restaurant, one of 19 locations scattered across Florida, most of which are corporate owned.

Here, chicken rules, most prominently in platters of flappers, either flame-grilled, breaded and fried or fried "naked" with nothing but a shimmer of sauce that comes in 15 or more flavors.

The most popular of these is Gator's Scooter sauce, a slightly sweet, garlicky version of Buffalo. It is tasty, but not as good, in this humble reporter's opinion, as the Thai peanut variety.

Based on wings that have been char-grilled, the Thai version, which was not on the menu but a featured item just the same, is reason alone to search out this casual, sports-bar-themed eatery, where flat-paneled screens outnumber the sauce options.

Gator's Dockside is a welcome addition to the proliferation of wing houses, which may explain why it markets itself as something entirely different. But alligator only shows up as fried tidbits in a $7.99 appetizer.

Wings, on the other hand, play starring roles, especially on Mondays, where you get all you can eat from 6-11 p.m. for $10.99. A boneless version is also available.

The first Gator's debuted in 1991 in Jacksonville, and owners Tony and Paul Cipparone, and John Foerst, have since expanded their corporate empire to 15 locales. A few additional stores are owned independently by the principals. Paul Cipparone owns the sole Polk County restaurant at the north end of Highland City Town Center.

There, you can wash down very good fried mushrooms, or a spicy, thick chili with any number of refreshments from a fully stocked bar, which offers additional seating and a heavy dose of ESPN.

While appetizers tend to rely mostly on a bath in hot oil, the menu does provide a good selection of salads. But then, this is not exactly a place for munching iceberg, romaine or mesclun mixes.

Better to have your vegetables in a Turkey Pretzel Reuben, a smoky, savory twist that substitutes lean poultry for corned beef, but leaves tangy-sweet sauerkraut and melted Swiss oozing from a soft pretzel roll. Pair with another veggie -- trendy homemade potato chips, for a crunchy, salty fix.

Another winner is the grilled mahi sandwich, a generous wedge of moist, well-seasoned fish topped with a dice of sauteed onion and red bell pepper sweetened with a splash of zinfandel.

Some things are just perplexing, as in a hot, turkey muffaletta, which has absolutely nothing in common with the New Orleans creation, a cold sandwich of cheeses, deli meats and a briny relish of green olives, capers, herbs and vegetable aromatics.

Gator's interpretation tops shaved turkey breast with Swiss, tomato, spinach and dabs of a soft, ricotta-like cheese. It wasn't bad. But it wasn't a muffaletta. While the menu description makes this clear, why not call it something else?

An entree called Shrimp Fiesta, $11.99, is exactly that: a spicy, creamy riff on mac and cheese that makes tasty use of grilled crustaceans, penne, tomatoes, peppers and onions. Enrobed in a sauce of cheddar and American, the dish is satisfying, and aptly named.

Likewise, there are no tricks to the Captains Platter, $13.49, featuring beer-battered fish, shrimp and a skewer of small-but-tasty grilled lemon-pepper shrimp.

This and other deep-fried items display how adept the kitchen is with deep frying. Which is precisely what you'd expect from a wing house.

With Gator's, you get a few surprises, mostly enjoyable, like dried cranberry in the cole slaw, pool tables and video games for the kids, and genial servers who never seem to lose their cool, no matter how busy.

Desserts are not a strong suit, indeed, none are even listed on the menu. But you can get a $7.69 slice of chocolate layer cake that you've seen again and again, and a few other sweet options.

During an Aug. 11 inspection, the restaurant met inspection standards but was cited for six critical violations, such as seafood being thawed in standing water, and a handwashing sink that was blocked.

Gator's Dockside, deserving of three and 1/2 out of five stars, is a cheerful spot for extraordinary wings, maybe a beer, or two, and a number of other tasty dishes that are competitively priced with restaurants of this type.

Ledger Reporter Eric Pera can be reached at eric.pera@theledger.com or 802-7528.