Mike's Deli

If a deli could survive making just one sandwich, Mike's Deli in Lakeland could bet the house on The Godfather.

Generally speaking, though, restaurants don't survive with one best-seller, and that could put Mike's in jeopardy.

The Godfather (6 inches for $3.95 or 12 inches for $5.85) is an Italian favorite - salami, pepperoni, ham, provolone, lettuce, tomato, onions and Italian dressing on a freshly baked roll. Warmed up it's an explosion of taste that comes alive between the soft, crispy dough housing.

As good as The Godfather is, it doesn't carry other breakfast or lunch items on its coattails.

The "Big Bub" specialty sub (same prices as The Godfather) features house-smoked barbecue pork. The first bite or two are tremendous, bits of pulled pork melting in your mouth as part of the filling falls out the side of the overstuffed roll. But after a few mouthfuls you realize the pork is very sweet, so sweet you really can't eat much more without feeling like your teeth are going to rot.

Mike's also offers more traditional subs, like turkey and roast beef, and wraps such as turkey bacon ranch and grilled chicken Caesar. It also offers six salads, including the Polk County chef ($4.85) and grilled chicken salad ($4.85).

The iceberg and romaine lettuces in the chef salad were fresh, as were the cucumbers, peppers, tomatoes (could be a bit riper) and onion. Croutons were abundant, lending crunch to the salad, which also included the traditional turkey, ham and cheese. Overall, a decent lunch.

The grilled chicken salad, on the other hand, was second rate. Shreds of bland chicken, which tasted microwaved or boiled instead of the more flavorful grilled or baked, were served over browning lettuce. Again, the tomatoes were not ripe. And bits of bacon were not cooked enough to be pleasing to most consumers.

Mike's offers several soups each day - $2.99 a cup, or $2 if ordered with a sandwich. Chicken noodle soup contained chunks of chicken and rich noodles in a thicker-than-normal broth.

For something sweet, try a chocolate chip cookie (93 cents), which was moist and rich. Skip the brownie ($1.25), which was dry and tasteless, like it was leftover from the week before.

The restaurant also serves breakfast beginning at 7 a.m. on weekdays. The offerings aren't many, but you get enough of a choice to stop in and try something different several days a week.

Biscuits and sausage gravy (small, $2.25; large, $2.95) was big enough to satisfy a hungry appetite. Sausage was not plentiful, but the gravy oozed with flavor.

The breakfast burrito ($2.95) contains egg, sausage, peppers, onion and cheddar cheese wrapped in a 12-inch tortilla. Salsa and sour cream can be served in the burrito or on the side. Opt to have it packed inside to add some taste.

At Mike's you order at the front counter and then pick up your food a short time later. Or you can call ahead and pick it up at a drive-through window.

You can make every meal a combo, adding soda and chips, for a small up-charge.

One note: Look on the counter and to the right for new additions that aren't on the large menu board.

When last reviewed in 2006 Mike's Deli received three stars. It receives two and 1/2 stars this year.

Lenore Devore can be reached at lenore.devore@theledger.com or 802-7501.