Moe's Southwest Grill

Mexican food should be spicy and bold, flavors ricocheting from one side of your mouth to the other. Chips should be warm and crisp. Salsas should light up your mouth like fireworks.

If you don't think you can find all this in Lakeland, think again.

Head on down to Moe's Southwest Grill, where you'll be "welcomed" by the entire staff the minute you open the door.

It's such a good feeling, but nothing like the feeling you'll have when you waddle out, satisfied, stuffed, contented.

Moe's is not fancy. You won't get waited on here. Nor will you find linens. If you want food, you order it off a big board when you walk in. Silverware? Try plastic forks, knives and spoons, right along with thin paper napkins you have to get yourself.

But don't let that stop you.

Moe's knows what it's doing, from grilling its meat right where you can see it to adding all the toppings your heart desires, with only a small up-charge - and only for some meals - for guacamole and sour cream.

Judging by what was being ordered before and after me, the Homewrecker ($6.99) appears to be the most popular item on the menu. Believe me, our home would be wrecked if we had to fight over this burrito. But luckily we didn't because it's big enough for two, with tasty grilled chicken oozing out the sides along with black beans, rice, cheddar cheese, pico de gallo, lettuce, sour cream and guacamole. A smorgasbord of color and flavor that needed no enhancing.

As with all its offerings, you can choose your filling, picking from sirloin steak, chicken, ground beef, tofu or pulled pork. Steak and pork will set you back another 99 cents, but the prices are so reasonable it's worth it.

If meat's not your thing, you can have any meal vegetarian style with rice and black or pinto beans.

A huge helping of just-fried chips is served with most meals. Head to the "salsa bar" to sample several different types.

Other selections are just as good as the Homewrecker.

The Billy Barou nachos ($6.29) features a basket of chips loaded with meat (I chose chicken), queso, beans and anything else you want, from cheese and lettuce to jalapeños and black olives. One basket feeds two.

For something different, I chose fajita sirloin steak for my Fat Sam fajitas ($8.49), and I was not disappointed. Grilled onions complemented the savory, tender steak chunks; the preparers were nice enough to substitute grilled mushrooms for peppers. With the rest of the trimmings neatly placed in rows in a basket and three tortillas upon which to build your creation, you will not go hungry.

For something more traditional, try the Over Achiever taco ($2.99). Pricey, you say. Keep in mind that this is not a Taco Bell taco. It's a taco that lives up to its name - one might equal three from the Bell. The only problem is the juices from the beans - and a little fat from the ground beef - soak through the crunchy shells and make it REALLY messy to eat.

When last reviewed in 2006 Moe's received three stars. This time it receives three and 1/2 stars, keeping in mind that this is more a fast-food joint than a sit-down restaurant. If you're OK with that, you'll love the food and the friendly atmosphere.

Lenore Devore can be reached at lenore.devore@theledger.com or 802-7501.